Towering over the green and fertile oasis of the Hunza Valley are the ice ridges and peaks of one of the Himalayan giants, Rakaposhi (7788m). Two rewarding and contrasting treks combined with a breathtaking ride up the Karakoram Highway provide a classic Pakistan experienceDumani /Rakaposhi which is the local name, the shining wall, Rakaposhi lies half way of Nagar from Gilgit town on the right edge of the Karakorum highway at the left bank of Nagar River.
It is one o the magnificent peak in the world. The peak dominates the horizon and is constantly visible from the Karakorum highway, it looks so beautiful that the first ever glance at it inspires charms and lures an on looker to be in its abode, it is also one of the easy accessible peak being lying on the Karakorum highway.
Famous glacier valleys, like, Biro, Barpu, Bagrot and Pissan surround the peak, it has 3 faces to climb, from South east face biro glacier Goglot Goh, valley from North West Pissan glacier from west Ghulmet face which is a long route to reach to the main summit.
Technically it begins with ice and later on with rock steep and over hung walls, only easy from Juglot side from which several expeditions got on the summit.
In 1938 it was explored by British India with a German man R Campbell Scord who have scaled a small peak of Rrakaposhi group 6858m that was first attempt of Rakaposhi group from Juglot Nala.
The 2nd attempt was by RCF Schaumburg in 1946 –47 reached up to 6096m. RCF Schaumburg a famous explorer of Karakorum and Himalaya from British India.
It was 1954 the German Austrian climbers tried Mount Rakaposhi but they couldn’t find an easy route, in the same time another expedition from Cambridge University attempt a small peak ranging 6340m.
In 1958 British Pakistan combined expedition climbed Rakaposhi and valid the medal of Pride. Two of the members Gol Frost bite one has died, with hard injuries. It depends to the climbers climbing experiences and physical fitness to choose routs.
Ultar Peak (7388 M)
Ultar Peak is situated in the Batura groups of mountains the Karakorum range, which starts from Chalt village Bar valley to Kampir Dior in Kurumbar valley, which cuts Pamir Hindu Kush ranges from Karakorum, These beautiful mountain lies in center Hunza region 113 km, from Gilgit and 715 km from the capital city of Islamabad. The surrounding peaks are ladyfinger, Marble Peak, Harchinder Peak -Passu Peak-Diran- and other famous peaks. The surrounding glaciers are Attabad -Ultar, Hussan Abad and Batura.Technically its known hard steady, ice and rock falls, over hanging rocks and sheer Ice, crevasses, Sharp ridges. It was attempted by many expedition in the past, but all of them were failed, the only expedition from Japan, who climbed this peak in 1997.
Diran Peak ( 7266 M )
This peak is situated between Rakaposhi & Haramosh Massif of karakurom Range one of the most beautiful Mountain in Nagar valley with easy climb of snow dome.
This peak has a reputation sitting beside the Rakaposhi and Haramosh high peaks which surrounded by Minapin Barpu Boulter glacier, it offer a panoramic view to the Hunza valley. Accessible from Gilgit on KKH to minapin-Gultens-Hapakum- B.Camp. to the pasture land on a beautiful meadow with Extra ordinary view for the green land of Nagar valley, the down hill of villages gives the picture seek view of agricultural fields orchard.
In 1968 the three member of Austrian Expedition attempted Diran, and they have got on the summit successful. They found Hidden crevasses and high snow Domes on the Northwest ridge.
In 1964 another Austrian Expedition tried to get on the summit from Northwest face the couldn’t succeeded, the bad weather effect them, no injuries has happened.
Technically it is known difficult because the ice walls and hidden crevasses or the heavy soft snow.
Passu Peak (7284 M)
Passu peak situated at the extreme west of Batura Mouztagh at upper Hunza beyond Passu village about one hundred km beyond the china border and 150 km from Gilgit its on the Karakorum high way clearly visible, the surrounding peaks are Batura-I 7885m Shisper 7619m, Balter peak 7400m Kampir Deyor peak 7611m.
It lies between Batura glacier the 6th longest glacier of the world, Passu glacier, Ghulkin glacier, Kamaris glacier.
It is one o the magnificent peak in the world. The peak dominates the horizon and is constantly visible from the Karakorum highway, it looks so beautiful that the first ever glance at it inspires charms and lures an on looker to be in its abode, it is also one of the easy accessible peak being lying on the Karakorum highway.
Famous glacier valleys, like, Biro, Barpu, Bagrot and Pissan surround the peak, it has 3 faces to climb, from South east face biro glacier Goglot Goh, valley from North West Pissan glacier from west Ghulmet face which is a long route to reach to the main summit.
Technically it begins with ice and later on with rock steep and over hung walls, only easy from Juglot side from which several expeditions got on the summit.
In 1938 it was explored by British India with a German man R Campbell Scord who have scaled a small peak of Rrakaposhi group 6858m that was first attempt of Rakaposhi group from Juglot Nala.
The 2nd attempt was by RCF Schaumburg in 1946 –47 reached up to 6096m. RCF Schaumburg a famous explorer of Karakorum and Himalaya from British India.
It was 1954 the German Austrian climbers tried Mount Rakaposhi but they couldn’t find an easy route, in the same time another expedition from Cambridge University attempt a small peak ranging 6340m.
In 1958 British Pakistan combined expedition climbed Rakaposhi and valid the medal of Pride. Two of the members Gol Frost bite one has died, with hard injuries. It depends to the climbers climbing experiences and physical fitness to choose routs.
Ultar Peak (7388 M)
Ultar Peak is situated in the Batura groups of mountains the Karakorum range, which starts from Chalt village Bar valley to Kampir Dior in Kurumbar valley, which cuts Pamir Hindu Kush ranges from Karakorum, These beautiful mountain lies in center Hunza region 113 km, from Gilgit and 715 km from the capital city of Islamabad. The surrounding peaks are ladyfinger, Marble Peak, Harchinder Peak -Passu Peak-Diran- and other famous peaks. The surrounding glaciers are Attabad -Ultar, Hussan Abad and Batura.Technically its known hard steady, ice and rock falls, over hanging rocks and sheer Ice, crevasses, Sharp ridges. It was attempted by many expedition in the past, but all of them were failed, the only expedition from Japan, who climbed this peak in 1997.
Diran Peak ( 7266 M )
This peak is situated between Rakaposhi & Haramosh Massif of karakurom Range one of the most beautiful Mountain in Nagar valley with easy climb of snow dome.This peak has a reputation sitting beside the Rakaposhi and Haramosh high peaks which surrounded by Minapin Barpu Boulter glacier, it offer a panoramic view to the Hunza valley. Accessible from Gilgit on KKH to minapin-Gultens-Hapakum- B.Camp. to the pasture land on a beautiful meadow with Extra ordinary view for the green land of Nagar valley, the down hill of villages gives the picture seek view of agricultural fields orchard.
In 1968 the three member of Austrian Expedition attempted Diran, and they have got on the summit successful. They found Hidden crevasses and high snow Domes on the Northwest ridge.
In 1964 another Austrian Expedition tried to get on the summit from Northwest face the couldn’t succeeded, the bad weather effect them, no injuries has happened.
Technically it is known difficult because the ice walls and hidden crevasses or the heavy soft snow.
Passu Peak (7284 M)
Passu peak situated at the extreme west of Batura Mouztagh at upper Hunza beyond Passu village about one hundred km beyond the china border and 150 km from Gilgit its on the Karakorum high way clearly visible, the surrounding peaks are Batura-I 7885m Shisper 7619m, Balter peak 7400m Kampir Deyor peak 7611m.It lies between Batura glacier the 6th longest glacier of the world, Passu glacier, Ghulkin glacier, Kamaris glacier.
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